Beyond Paris: The Loire Valley and the Beginning of a Medieval Journey

Yesterday we left behind the hustle and bustle of Paris and set off toward the Loire Valley. George planned this route, eager to show us a few medieval castles that look as if they were lifted straight out of a fairy tale.

So, for the rest of our itinerary, we rented a car — France, being roughly three times larger than Romania, demands both time and space to be truly discovered.

We left at 10:30 a.m., and getting out of Paris took almost 40 minutes because of the ever-present traffic. Once we passed the urban area, the scenery changed completely: clean towns, less noise, and that unmistakable French atmosphere — hard to define, that je ne sais quoi that gives the country its charm.

Our first stop was in Versailles, since we had rushed out of Paris without water or anything to snack on. There we found an excellent boulangerie with a quiche Lorraine (a savory tart with eggs and bacon 🥓) unanimously loved by the whole family — so much so that we plan to repeat the experience along the way. From there, I took the wheel and drove to Orléans, where we stopped to admire the imposing cathedral.

Orléans is a city deeply tied to the history of Joan of Arc, and its main attraction is the Sainte-Croix Cathedral, an impressive Gothic structure rebuilt between the 17th and 19th centuries. Its monumental façade and the stained-glass windows dedicated to Joan of Arc are its highlights.

The cathedral has a remarkable history: originally built in the Middle Ages, it was severely damaged during the French Wars of Religion between Catholics and Protestants (1562–1598), when many places of worship were destroyed. It was later rebuilt in the Gothic style, just as we see it today. It is closely linked to Joan of Arc, who came here to pray in 1429 during the campaign to liberate the city in the Hundred Years’ War. After the victory of 1429, Joan of Arc was venerated as the protector of Orléans, and the cathedral dedicated a series of stained-glass windows to her, illustrating key moments of her campaign. Honestly, I found it even more beautiful than Notre-Dame in Paris — perhaps because it is brighter, more spacious, and far easier to admire without crowds of tourists.

After this historical and informational stop 😁, we continued our journey toward Langeais. Why Langeais? Because it is perfectly located, at an equal distance from the most famous medieval castles in the region. On top of that, we found accommodation right in the courtyard of Château de Langeais.

I can’t quite find the words to describe how wonderful the whole town smells…

… like linden blossoms.

After settling in, we went out in search of a small épicerie (a little grocery shop) for water and something to eat. But the charm of a provincial town comes with a small inconvenience: at 6 p.m., everything closes. So we were left without supplies until morning. Luckily, the only restaurant in town was still open, so we ate there. The food was excellent, the portions… tiny and painfully expensive. But hey, at least we didn’t go to bed hungry.

And that’s how our peaceful evening in Langeais came to an end.


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